Capitol Cuisine: New in Navy Yard

285
Gatsby, parent restaurant to the new Beresovsky’s Deli, sports an Art Deco ambience, lively bar and eclectic menu.

New Navy Yard Deli

Beresovsky’s Deli has opened at 1201 Half St. SE, across from Nats Park. Part of Knead Hospitality + Design, the tiny, New York/Jewish style enterprise slings deli mainstays. You’ll find Reubens, smoked whitefish salad, beef brisket, bagels, Ivy City smoked salmon, black-and-white cookies. Plus beer, wine, plain and spiked milkshakes. Some items are sold by the pound or half pound.

A Gatsby favorite is savory butternut squash soup, enlivened with a dollop of yogurt.

On a blustery Saturday, Peter and I checked it out. Wedged next door to parent restaurant Gatsby, Beresovsky’s is mainly a carryout with only a few stools for dining-in. All were occupied, the wait was long, and it was far too cold to sit outside at a picnic table. We’ll try again soon. Beresovsky’s is open daily; on Nats game days get there EARLY. For hours and more information visit www.beresovskys.com.

So, we repaired next door to the much larger, full-service Gatsby. Diners might expect F. Scott’s iconic character to stroll into the handsome Art Deco space. The room is dominated by a four-sided bar, with umpteen TV screens hovering above. We were seated at a corner table, where we chatted with two ladies in town for a wedding. From the lunch/brunch lineup, we began with butternut squash soup. The tummy warming, slightly sweet montage was laced with what tasted like yogurt.

Gatsby’s kitchen features a generous Greek omelet filled with beef and lamb gyros.

My hearty Greek omelet was filled with beef and lamb gyros, topped with tzatziki and escorted by fried potato cubes and peppers. Crispy calamari was tossed with cherry peppers and pickled onions, which added zip. Unfortunately, some of the tentacles were rather rubbery. Among other options were chicken pot pie, shrimp-and-grits scampi, steak-and-eggs. Sandwiches include Monte Cristo (deep fried ham and Gruyere); burgers, grilled chicken on a brioche.

For lunch, I ordered a Bloody Mary, which our server assured me was “not too spicy,” but the pre-mixed drink practically blew my head off. Instead, I settled for a pleasant Cote du Rhone (red) wine. (The Bloody Mary was subtracted from our bill.)  Lunch for two came to $75 including tax and tip. Service was well-intentioned but somewhat discombobulated. We had to practically beg for silverware, and getting a printed receipt was cumbersome. For hours and more information visit www.gatsbyrestaurant.com.

Wine About It

Nearby, District Winery, 385 Water St. SE, now serves Saturday and Sunday brunch. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., folks chow down on blue crab stuffed arancini (rice balls), avocado toast, chicken and waffles, eggs Benedict, French toast and more, plus brunchy cocktails like mimosas and Bloody Marys. A working winery, District Winery operates a restaurant and bar on the ground floor. For reservations and more information visit www.districtwinery.com.

Joey’s: Barracks Row Revival

Remember Marty’s, the down-home Barracks Row restaurant/bar at 527 Eighth St. SE? We used to watch football games there, munching on Marty’s popcorn or chowing down on homemade chili. Marty’s folded years ago, replaced by the Greek-themed Cava. That restaurant also departed. Now, Joey’s, a family-friendly spot, has opened at that same address. The proprietor is restaurateur John Boyle, who operated Marty’s there and still owns the building.

A Joey’s menu highlight is succulent pastrami, snuggled in toasted rye with coleslaw and pickle.

Joey’s–which accommodates 180 plus patio seating–sports a light and airy décor with a handsome, expanded bar. Heading the spiffed-up kitchen is Rob Gilson, a former US Senate chef. Among Joey’s eclectic lineup are risotto parmesan bites, spicy wings, homemade chili, Reubens, beef brisket and lots more, plus a kids’ menu. You’ve got to try the hot pastrami sandwich snuggled in toasted rye. Sourced from a Baltimore purveyor, the moist, succulent pastrami is about the best I’ve tasted. Mine was served with coleslaw and three kinds of mustard–Dijon, deli and whole-grain.

The overstuffed New England lobster roll–escorted with fries, coleslaw and pickle–is a bargain at $24.95. Piled atop a grilled bun with a mayonnaise sauce, it’s one of the best lobster rolls we’ve consumed south of Maine.

Marty’s spacious front patio and handsome roof deck are pet-friendly. Closed Monday. For hours and more information visit www.barracksrowjoeys.com.

On Barracks Row, Joey’s, a family friendly restaurant/bar, opened last year in the former Marty’s space.

New on H

Beef nudged out fondue as Steak Frites DC arrived last month at 1324 H St. NE, formerly the Swiss-style Stable. The owners are the same: David Fritsche and Sylvan Kraemer, who decided on a menu change. Steak Frites DC is reportedly modeled after Entrecote Café de Paris, the century-old French restaurant. Serving premium steak, fries, salad and bread-and-butter, DC Frites will reportedly be a dressier version of the former Barracks Row steakhouse. Medium Rare, we’re told.

Gone

Sospeso, the cozy Mediterranean café at 1344 H St. NE, folded last month after seven years in business. Will miss the creamy hummus, spicy Turkish lentil soup, grilled lamb chops and lively bar scene. 

RAMMY Nominees

Coming up: The 42nd annual RAMMY Awards gala is slated for July 21. Among RAMMY finalists are several Capitol Hill (and nearby) food professionals in various categories: New Restaurant of the Year: Hiraya (H Street NE) and I Egg You (Barracks Row); Rising Culinary Star: Matt Sperber (Any Day Now, Navy Yard); Casual Restaurant: La Famosa (Navy Yard); Upscale Casual Restaurant: Shilling Catering Company (Navy Yard); Pastry Chef (or Baker): Isabel Coss, Pascual (Maryland Ave. NE); Restaurateur of the Year: Jose Andres (multiple restaurants plus worldwide humanitarian aid), and Call Your Mother (nominees at several locations); Favorite Gathering Place: Mi Vida (District Wharf).

Sponsored by the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW), the RAMMY Awards Gala will be held at the Walter Washington Convention Center. For tickets and more information visit www.ramw.org.

Wharf Southern Charm

The District Wharf welcomes the long-awaited Kinfolk Southern Kitchen, 685 Wharf St. SW. Part of the Eaternity Hospitality Group, the newcomer is billed as a “Bourbon and Barbecue” restaurant. The menu focuses on “Americana” comfort foods including smoked pork shoulder with signature sauce, smoked ribs, shrimp-and-grits, wings, fried green tomatoes, deviled eggs,  and a generous BBQ sampler. Check out the tandoori chicken, made from a 100-year-old family recipe. Plus Bourbon-based cocktails. For more information visit www.kinfolksouthern.com.

And…Nearby, coming soon to 515 Eighth St. SE: Jabwemet Indian Kitchen. Watch for updates.