Mussels to pasta? Shellfish probably don’t travel very well, especially in warm weather and during a pandemic. So, Granville Moore’s chef Ryan Gordon—known for his divine moule-frites— got creative. After 14 years of serving mainly mussels, Gordon has switched gears. Starting May 26, the Atlas District mainstay is now dispensing Italian comfort foods that replicate “red sauce” eateries Gordon frequented while growing up around New Jersey.
Now dubbed GM’s Pasta Place, the restaurant has installed a takeout window to provide seafood tagliatelle, spaghetti-and-meatballs, stuffed shells, and broccolini and spinach gnocchi. Starters include burrata caprese salad, calamari, smoked mozzarella, and pepperoni roll bites made with pizza dough. For dessert: tiramisu and cannoli. To drink: to-go wines, local beers, and a blood orange Negroni.
Gordon has already experimented with Italian cooking; he tested a pasta pop-up inside Granville Moore’s just before the pandemic and the noodles practically flew out of the kitchen. After securing federal and local funding, Granville Moore’s was able to update the façade and provide a safe environment for his staff—and to pay them. Ryan might consider pivoting back to mussels, depending on how the pasta works out.
Located at 1238 H St. NE, GM’s Pasta Place is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 8 p.m., with pickup and delivery via GrubHub and Uber Eats. Customers who call in takeout directly get a 15 percent discount. Call 202-399-2546 or visit www.granvillemoores.com to see the menu.
Meanwhile, sister spot the Queen Vic, 1206 H St. NE, is also offering takeout. Call 202-396-2001 or visit www.queenvicdc.com.